A Day 4 in Provence

A scattered day … We went to bank in Vaison la Romaine in the morning to set up joint European account — “come back at 1:30.” We have lunch and walk around old Vaison la Romaine, especially getting ideas for Chez Mirabel’s front entry area (i.e., iron outside gate and glass front door). Back at bank for 1-1/2 hour “interview” for new account setup, had to show recent U.S. utility & tax bills (but not birth or marriage records); account will probably be set up in about week after they receive a reference from our U.S. bank. Drive to Nord Avignon to the most incredible sea of “big box stores” to shop for paint samples.  Completely blows away my preconceived image of France only having small quaint shops, although these huge shopping centers/malls do seem to be isolated & concentrated. Finally, finished the day with an amazing dinner at Coteaux & Fourchettes outside Cairanne with a work colleague of Dory’s and her husband, Jill & Charlie. They are on a trip through France researching an upcoming wine tour to be lead by Charlie. Whew!

– Rick

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The Day After

We spent a very quiet first morning as Chez Mirabel owners — some of us sleeping in and others going back for a nap as those woke up. So it was early afternoon before we all were pointed in the same direction (i.e., upright). With rain forecasted and concerned that the autumn colors would soon fade, I took off for two hours of photographing Cairanne with my big Can(n)on. Some quick results here:


Then we drove to Mirabel to begin the process of exploring how to best fit the furniture we bought this summer (see earlier post) into the house. Actually “the girls” focused on that task while I quickly explored Mirabel for photo opportunities. I only had about an hour of light left, but was able to find a few:

And I came back to Chez Mirabel to find Lynda, Dory, & Martha having a ton of fun comparing measured spaces to earlier measured furniture pieces.

The level of excitement continually rose as they discovered great matches. It also became quite clear that we need to remodel the kitchen — remove the existing arches and cabinets to order to better utilize space and lighting. More details to follow … time for bed now!

– Rick

 

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Chez Mirabel is Ours!!!

What a day — we spent some time in the morning exploring the village of Mirabel-aux-Baronnies … what a cute little village! It feels very alive and loved by its residents, with lots of little pedestrian ways and shops within feet, I mean meters, of our maison. We then walked through the house for a hour with the sellers, M. & Mme. Compart, trying to learn its ins and outs. Thankfully their son-in-law joined us to translate. Lynda & Dory were still excited by all that they saw, and Martha & I found it even more than we expected! Then it was off to lunch and the closing “ceremony” nearby in Vaison la Romaine (see pictures below).

We have found the Comparts to be absolutely lovely people — very open & helpful. M. Compart became quite emotional at the signing. He is leaving a place he renovated from ruins over thirty years ago. And we were very pleased to find that they left the house in immaculate condition. That’s not to say that a lot of work isn’t needed … we returned to the house in the evening and spent a couple of hours discussing what needed to be done — painting, wallpapering, new woodwork & doors,electrical enhancements, bedroom level flooring, bathroom remodels, a probable kitchen remodel, and … and ….  Unfortunately a long day became longer when we couldn’t find the front door key to lock up. I am embarrassed say that the key was among coins in my pocket the whole time. I’m trying to blame it on jet lag, but those who know me well might have a knowing smile right now. Speaking of jet lag, must get to bed — I hope to get more than 4 hours of sleep this night. We’ll write more soon.

– Rick

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Day 1 of House Buying Trip

Well, four of us are assembled in Provence to close on Chez Mirabel tomorrow! We arrived at Lynda & Jim’s lovely Cairanne house mid-afternoon today (Sunday) and promptly went on a 3 or so mile walk around the village of Cairanne in order to stay awake … pictures below. Fall has obviously arrived, with the Cotes du Rhone vineyards a golden yellow. We then watched a beautiful sunset while drinking some village wine; actually the sun was setting behind one of the wineries at our feet!  We then ordered some pizza from “Joe, the pizza man” whose truck parks in the village center every Sunday. It’s now around 10PM and we’re now off to bed; we’ll see how long we sleep (fingers crossed).

More tomorrow … we inspect the house at 10AM and sign documents at 3PM.

– Rick

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We Now Own a House’s Worth of Furniture …

and hopefully we’ll eventually have a house to put it in!  The backstory — Lynda & Jim knew of a house that was sold in Sablet, Provence, without its furniture and therefore that content needed a new home.  Everyone who had spent time at the Sablet house thought highly of its furnishings, so we stepped forward and bought it.  It is now in storage awaiting the purchase of Chez Mirabel (our fingers are now REALLY crossed).

– Rick

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Cave of Forgotten Dreams


This weekend the six of us amies de Mirabel went to see a wonderful documentary by Werner Herzog, The Cave of Forgotten Dreams. This 3-D movie is about the extraordinary cave discovered in 1994 in the Ardeche, France.  The cave”s ancient paintings are simply stunning; they are 30,000 years old and exquisitely rendered with expressive shading, line quality and perspective.  We were especially enthralled because the Chauvet Cave is only about 1 hour’s drive from Mirabel. We can’t wait to return to Chez Mirabel and plan a day’s outing to see the Pont d’Arc, hike along the Ardeche River, and imagine the lives of the artists who created these paintings.  An exact replica of the cave will be open to the public in 2014.

– Dory

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April in Provence (Strawberries and Asparagus)

One of the joys of being in Provence is shopping the prolific markets laden with delicious fruits, vegetables and food products of all kinds, which change with the season.   Our search for the perfect Provencal village house in April left us very little time for cooking, but we couldn’t resist doing just a little shopping and cooking.  April is the month when strawberries and asparagus are in their glory.  Luscious, juicy, flavorful Fraises des Carpentras begin to be seen in all of the local markets at this moment and asparagus of all sorts are grown in various towns and villages of the Vaucluse, Drome and Gard.  The asparagus come in three colors:  purple, white and green and range from pencil-thin wild asparagus so packed with flavor that just a few flavor an omelette with an unforgettable concentrated essence, to the fattest white asparagus with an intriguingly mild taste.

Provence celebrates the arrival of each of the annual culinary treasures with festivals, and April is no exception.  The Fête de la Fraise in Carpentras and the Foire aux Asperges in Mormoiron take place within short drives from Mirabel.  Mountains of asparagus and strawberries are piled high and offered for sale and of course, the asparagus and strawberries are the featured ingredients in the communal meals, food carts, and cooking demonstrations that are almost always found at the festivals. Since we had so little time to cook, we limited ourselves to simple preparations  inspired by local ingredients, easily obtained in the market and whipped up with a minimum of preparation.

– Lynda

Here are two of our favorite recipes:

Roasted Asparagus & Prosciutto
(Appetizer or First Course)

  1. Ingredients: Thin, Green Asparagus, Prosciutto, Olive Oil, Grated Parmesan Cheese.
  2. Wash asparagus and break off the tough part of the spear.  Cut slices of prosciutto lengthwise into three pieces.  (I find this easiest to do with kitchen shears.)
  3. Wrap a prosciutto slice around each asparagus spear.
  4. Brush each wrapped spear with olive oil.
  5. Sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese.
  6. Roast at 375 – 425 degrees until nicely tender and slightly browned.

Strawberries with Fresh Goat Cheese and Basil
(Dessert)

  1. Ingredients: Fresh Strawberries, Sugar or Honey, Fresh Goat Cheese, Fresh Basil, Olive Oil, Aged Balsamic Vinegar.
  2. Slice strawberries.  Sprinkle small amount of sugar or honey over them.
  3. Process a large bunch of basil with about ¼ cup olive oil in the food processor.
  4. Place strawberries on individual serving plates with a mound of goat cheese.
  5. Artfully arrange the basil sauce beside the goat cheese and strawberries.
  6. Drizzle with the aged balsamic vinegar.’,
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We find the perfect house in Provence!

After two weeks of house hunting in the south of France in April, Lynda and I found the house we had been hoping for!  We had seen many, many houses and none met all of our criteria. When we first walked through the front door of Chez Mirabel, we both beamed. Here – finally – was what we dreamed of finding  – a light-filled dining room, a gracious living room with exposed beams, a beautiful old stone fireplace. All this plus a wonderful spacious kitchen, 3+ bedrooms and a sunny rooftop terrace with stunning views.  We were thrilled!  We decided that although the house was great, we had to get to know the village before making an offer.

 

The next day we returned to Mirabel-aux-Baronnies to walk the pretty village lanes, check out the boulangerie, talk with the owner of the rare and used book store, see the beautiful views of vineyards, nearby villages and Mt. Ventoux from the bell tower, and drink in the flavors of this pretty Provencal village. We loved it!  Charming, full of character but alive and vibrant at the same time.

We felt it a must to sample the lunch menu at the village”s best restaurant, La Coloquinte.  The dessert was Duo de Chocolat Mousse, Noir et Blanc. Délicieux!  You can see the smile on my face as we relaxed on La Coloquinte’s sunny terrace. We were now completely smitten.

Here is a photo of the owners standing by the front door of the house – the delightful Monsieur et Madame Compart. They couldn’t have been more helpful and informative.

– Dory

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